CHAPTER 8 OCE1001
). Beaufort Wind Scale
Circular Orbital Motion
The motion of water particles caused by a wave as the wave is transmitted through water.
Constructive Interference
A form of wave interference in which two waves come together in phase for example, crest to crest, to produce a greater displacement from teh still-water line than that produced by either of the waves.
Crest
The portion of an ocean wave that is displaced above the still-water level.
Orbital Wave
A wave phenomenon in which energy is moved along the inerface between fluids of different densities. The wave form is propagated by the movement of fluid particles in orbital paths.
Plunging Breaker
Impressive curling breakers that form on moderately sloping beaches.
Refraction
The process by which the part of a wave in shallow water is slowed down, causing the wave to bend and align itself nearly parallel to the shore.
Rogue Wave
An unusually large wave that occures unexpectedly amid other waves of smaller size. Also known as a superwave, monster wave, sleeper wave, or freak wave.
Shallow Water Wave
A wave on the surface haveing a wavelength of at least 20 times water depth. The bottom affects the orbit of water particles and speed is determined by water depth.
Spilling Breaker
A type of breaking wave that forms on a gently sloping beach which gradually extracts the energy from the wave to produce a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave.
Swell
A free ocean wave by which energy put into ocean waves by wind in the sea is transported with little energy loss across great stretches of ocean to the margins of continents where the energy is released in the surf zone.
Trough
The part of an ocean wave that is displaced below the still-water level.
Tsunami
A seismic sea wave. A long-period gravity wave generated by a submarine earthquake or volcanic event. Not noticable on the open ocean but builds up to great heights in shallow water.
Wave Base
The depth at which circular orbital motion becomes negligible. It exists at a depth of one-half wavelength, measured vertically from still water level.
Wave Height
The vertical distance between a crest and the adjoining trough.
Wave Reflection
The process by which a wave has part of its energy returned seaward by a reflecting surface.
Wavelength
The horizontal distance between two corresponding points on successive waves such as from crest to crest.